Two Weeks in Uganda

Friday- August 19, 2005 (Day 8)
Building day 4
"I am beginning to think that if I joined the Peace Corps in Africa, I would be cheating a village out of a better volunteer."


The house as it stood on Friday morning.
The most amazing thing just happened!  A baby was born to one of the cooks last night (she cooked us dinner yesterday evening, then had a baby hours later!).  We went to visit and to offer our congratulations.  The baby was beautiful - a little girl.  The father was beaming as he said something to the gent who had come along to translate - "we want to name the baby after one of the girls in your group."  We were stunned!  We stood there in silence for a few seconds, then Doug looked down at Joy (one of our two leaders) who was holding the newborn and said "how about Joy?"  They named their child 'Sanu' - joy in Lusoga.  I couldn't believe it - I never realized how much these people appreciated the help they received.  The mother had lost quite a bit of blood during the birth, so I ran and got her a bottle of water and some biscuits.  She gave birth in her home and will be back to work tomorrow or the day after...these people are amazing.


Proud mother with her newborn baby girl.
Click here for the day 8 photo gallery
Back at the work site, the house is really taking shape!  Today, we finished bricking and began putting up the roof - that was lots of fun...we go to climb all over the house.  Any fear of heights remaining after rock climbing is now completely gone.  During the morning, I was pointing one of the walls while James, one of the local boys who has been helping out around the house, sat with me.  Realizing it was the middle of the morning, I asked him what he was not in school.  He looked at me a bit oddly, as though he was confused as to why I didn't know the answer - "because I have no money" he said.  $15 would change this boys life forever...I want to send this kid to school.

During our morning tea-break, we had a porridge made from maize.  It was delicious - it tasted like
Lusoga lesson
Accaccanyavoo (Ah-cah-cahn-yah-voo): chameleon
Sanu (Sahn-you): joy
Sabo (Say-bow): sir; mister
Gnyeeabo (Gnee-ah-bow): ma'am; madam
cream of wheat despite the fact that it was made from corn flour.  At lunchtime, we walked to the other site to join the rest of our team and Bonnie told us that Stephanie had tonsillitis and had to have an IV in her arm for three days.  As a result, she would not be able to work on the house until Monday when we are scheduled to have it finished.  When we got back to our house in the evening, she was upset, but handled it very well.  She is perhaps the most mature 19 year old I have ever met - no doubt she will go far in life.

Featured Dish: Chapate

Chapati (Cha-pah-tea) is a flat, fried bread common in the cuisine of Eastern Africa as well as India.  It can be made from any combination of wheat flour, corn flour, chick pea flour, millet and more.  It often serves as a method of picking up and eating foods as opposed to using metal utensils.
After dinner, Jared, Mike, Luke, Eden, Tymberlee and I decided to go visit mzunga Paul in Eza Gaza (the town where he lives - about 4km away).  Farouk drove us in the pickup truck, but it was threatening to rain and the road which connects Bululu to Eza Gaza directly is a narrow dirt road which is not safe to drive when it is raining, so we had to take the long way around which took about twenty minutes.  Four of us sat in the bed of the truck and the two sat in the cab with Farouk.  We got to Paul's without any rain and sat with him for half an hour.

His house is a Habitat house which has had some major improvements.  The walls are plastered and painted, a ceiling has been installed, and he even has a room with a hold leading through the foundation to the outside so he can shower inside.  Outside the house, he has a fenced-in backyard with a small garden, a compost heap and a latrine.  To be honest, I was surprised the Peace Corps put him up in such a place - I was told that when you join the Peace Corps, you live at the same level as the people around you...this was certainly a nicer house than any I have seen here.

Paul's job is to teach the locals about HIV/AIDS prevention and treatment.  As such, he is basically dropped into the middle of Uganda and
Featured Video: Running children

Every day when we drove home from the work site, a parade of kids would run after us!  These kids are in incredible shape - they would keep up with the truck almost the entire way home!
told to go for it.  It is up to him to decide how best to do this.  If he wants to organize a conference of sorts, he has to write a program proposal requesting funds and send it to the Peace Corps office in Uganda.  This process takes months, so during a volunteer's two year service, he/she might will run a handful of programs at most.  So, when I asked him what is average day was like, he said he usually wakes up at 6:30 and farms a small plot of land he has until 11am when he comes back to his house to fix lunch.  After lunch, he does any errands he has to do, works on any program proposals he may be writing, then prepares dinner and eats.  After dinner, if he feels up to it, he walks the streets and strikes up conversations with people, hoping to talk to them about HIV/AIDS.  Hearing this was a huge disappointment - I realized that when joining the Peace Corps, one had to expect to help a small group of people and not to save the world.  However, I never imagined that your ability to help would be so hampered.  I have a great respect for those who can create structure where no structure exists, but I have never been good at that.  I am beginning to think that if I joined the Peace Corps in Africa, I would be cheating a village out of a better volunteer.  Not only that, but Jared (who also thought long and hard about about joining the Peace Corps) says he hears similar things from all the Peace Corps volunteers to whom he has spoken.  I have lots of thinking to do...

Seasons in Uganda
Uganda has three rainy seasons during which is it often rains every night:
January - March: drought
April - May: first rainy season
June - July: drought
August - mid-September: second rainy season
mid-September - October: drought
November - December: third rainy season
On the way home, it began to rain - hard!  The four of us in the back of the truck huddled together next to the cab to try to avoid getting soaked - this did no good whatsoever.  Farouk pulled under the only awning in the village - that of a gas station - and said we would have to wait until the rain died down.  However, next to us at the gas station was a taxi.  I asked Farouk to ask the driver how much it would cost to drive us back to Bululu and the driver said U20,000 (about US$11).  So, we paid him and hopped in (in Uganda, you pay the driver before you begin driving).  When we got to Bululu, the driver said it was farther away than he had expected and that he wanted another U20,000!  I said no - absolutely not..."we agreed on a price - it's not honorable to charge us more now."  I told him I would pay him an extra U5,000 for his troubles, he said how about U10,000 and we finally agreed on U7,000 (about US$4).  Afterwards, Farouk said U27,000 was a good price, so I didn't feel as though we had been taken advantage of, but it was still a bit of an adventure!

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Nicholas H. Saadah (saadah@stanfordalumni.org)
Two weeks in Uganda